Drei Stuben, Beckenhofstrasse, Zurich
As a food critic, choosing the next restaurant is an elaborate process. Poring over other publications, the personal notes and a map of the city, careful delibration is put into making the selection for the night. The reason Drei Stuben was selected was a bit different. Volker Eckel, the gentleman who lured the Grasshopers (GC) into believing he was going to invest 300 Mio CHF into the club, was credited by my favourite quality newspaper with living in a room above the Drei Stuben restaurant. A guy who lured Erich Vogel into beliving the 300 Mio CHF story, must know something about fine dining and so Drei Stuben it was. The impression of the restaurant is deceiving. You might be tricked into believing this is an upscale Schnitzel place, but after you open the menu you clearly see that someone is into fine cuisine. The appetizer was a seasonal asparagus salad. Lovely, perfectly cooked asparagus with some pine nuts. Simple, delicious and absolute perfect execution. I was deeply impressed, and didn’t know that it was going to get better. Milk lamb from Poschivao, with chorizo potatoes, morels and scallions. The lamb was tender and succelent, perfectly cooked, a true reverence towards woollen animals. Not quiet sure about the scallions, they were nice but not really needed. The morels (expertly prepared) and chorizo potatoes needed no other company. I also liked the vibe of the place. A strange woman in her early thirties and a man in his late fourties entered. They looked a bit like deers staring into a headlight. The woman timidly asked if they could eat something small, since she was a bit surprised as the place is a lot more low-key at lunch. Instead of wishing them goodbye they served them a soup and half portion of ravioli. They were really squirming in their seats and I felt sorry for them. Still the place has a nice vibe, swiss, classy but not over the top powerhouse type of place. Still if someone lives here and offers you 300 Mio CHF, think twice before paying for his lunch.
The food is excellent, prices mirror that: