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Kaiser’s Reblaube, Glockengasse, Zurich

Eierstich mit Kräuteröl

Marinierte Coquilles St. Jacques und gebratene Polipetti auf jungen Artischocken, ligurischen Oliven, Kapern und Frühlingszwiebeln

Kaninchennierchen, Favebohnen und Mandeln mit Flan aus natürlicher Entenleber

Burgunder Perlhuhnbrust mit Eierschwämmli, Spargel und Mönchsbart an Limettenschaum,

Gitzi Schlegel aus dem Ofen und Prägel gebraten mit Bärlauch und Senfkörnern Cima di rapa und Polenta „Rosso“ - Kuchen

Rhabarbermousse, Erdbeeren und Sauerrahmglacé

Kaiser’s Reblaube (literally the Emperor’s vineyard arcade) is nicely located near the St. Peter’s church. The chef at Kaiser’s Reblaube is well known for writing for the Zueritipp, still that didn’t faze me one bit. The house is one of the oldest in the city and if you looked at the other guests….. common courtesy leaves you one no choice then to acknowledge that they were younger than the house. The first dish (an amuse bouche) was the worst. It was an “Eierstich” with some herb oil and there was no herb taste and the whole mouth feeling of the dish reminded one of a Caramelköpfli. That was a bad choice to get mouths watering. The scallop was marinated which gave it an unusual texture. Especially the citrus fruit (grapefruit) was nice and gave the dish a good balance. The best dish was the rabbit kidneys with Fava beans, almonds and a flan made from duck liver. Apparently the chef here has a patented method on how to prepare duck liver without stuffing the ducks and was awarded the Chef of the year 1998 award by the Swiss Animal Protection Society. Personally I’ll stick to the Gault Millau’s rating, but I’ll give credit for the innovative approach. We slipped in an extra course (guinea fowl breast), which was nice in taste, but if I order breast, I don’t want the bone attached to it. Lovely Cima di Rape went with the goat meat on the main course, making this a hearty and tasty dish (but not as good as at the Wiesengrund). I skipped the french toast on the dessert, and rightly so – the rhubarb alone was simply perfect. Looking back at the meal I found the menu to be a bit too hearty for spring, both the rabbit kidneys and especially the polenta rosso side dish felt more like autumn. Overall I didn’t quite get enough bang for the buck, foodwise I’d prefer the Caduff, however the Kaiser’s Reblaube wins in terms of being quaint. Finances:

Rechnung

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Posted by therealpickygourmet on 20 July 2010

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