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Weisser Wind, Niederdorf, Zurich

Salatteller

Röschti mit Spiegeleier

Well after being here I needed to check out the Duo Hinterletscht at the Weisser Wind. We headed for a preshow dinner. The mixed salad was nothing special However the Roeschti was sublime. Really one of the better examples I’ve had in Zurich. I’m not sure what they did or how they did it, but it was a recommendable version, which is difficult to get right. Prices were okay, and the Duo Hinterletscht scored points with most of their songs – except for the weird polish act in the middle of the show:

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Il Golosone, Uraniastrasse, Zurich

Menusalat

Pizza Napoli

The Il Golosone moved quite some time ago to the Uraniastrasse and they’re well know for their Pizza. So I was willing to overlook the boring salad which was served with the menu. The Pizza Napoli I had was delicious. Large with a crispy thin dough and classic toppings. The only downside is actually the large size, it get’s cold before you finish two-thirds of the pie. Prices are decent for lunch at this location, renommé of the place and quality of the food:

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FVRZ Gala des Breitenfussballs, Kongresshaus, Zurich

Hackbraten mit Estragonrisotto

Other personal comittments led me to attend the FVRZ Gala des Breitenfussballs. Essentially it’s the football association of Zurich hosting an event to celebrate all the local football clubs. The bash took place at the Kongresshaus and had such interesting show acts such as Andrew Brown with Pfosteschuss or the (I kid you not) Peacock Party Band. Main course for the 900 odd people in attendance was a meat loaf with tarragon risotto and oven tomatoes. Not a really convincing execution on any of the components, especially serving a tarragon risotto at a rather traditional event sounds strange. Also I’m not sure if tomatoes are in season in the mid of December. Still there was one real highlight – the Duo Hinterletscht was the last show block and rocked the house.

Oberes Triemli, Triemli, Zurich

Zwiebelsuppe

Beefsteak Tatare

Herrensiedfleisch

Coupe Danmark

What’s happiness for a food critic ? Finding a nice restaurant by chance. The Oberes Triemli was such a find. A nice interior with wood, classy white table linen and a large stone oven. Of course the nice table we get is in the other room just next to the corridor, but I was willing to overlook that. The place is old school, has been run by the same family for over five generations and is very well kept. The menu is so classic swiss fine dining, that it’s a lovely read. I start off with a onion soup and followed with some Beefsteak Tatare. But the real kicker was the boiled beef. It was served together with a huge marrow bone and four different sauces. Now I wouldn’t have needed all of them, but it shows the love. Finishing it off my favourite dessert as a child, Coupe Danmark. It was authentic even carrying the typical decoration. If you’re looking for nice swiss classic dining (and surprisingly they have an english menu) – this is the place to go, since it’s okay pricewise, has the real interior and good food. BTW – do try the wines from Jürg Saxer in Neftenbach, they’re surprisingly good. Prices:

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Vorbahnhof, Sihlquai, Zurich

Vorspeisensalat

Jumbospiess

I’m not fond of the Candrian Empire, running a slew of restaurants in the Zurich main station. If you don’t agree, buy a sandwich at one of their take out establishments and you’ll know why. Still I head to the Vorbahnhof every now and then. I always get the Jumbospiess for lunch. It starts with an uninspired salad, which is okay for getting fed. The Jumbospiess is a lot of food, plus it also carries a Cipollata (small, veal sausage) topped with some butter. Neither healthy nor light, but for middle aged men with a traditional swiss upringing this seems to hit a sweet spot. At least that’s what the glance around the dining room tells me. The french fries aren’t good, they seem to be some kind of McCain’s oven fries. The place does leave the impression, that its always full because of its location and not necessarily its food – prices are okay:

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Restaurant Schlössli, Neuaffoltern, Zürich

Zürcher Arischtokratengericht

Felchenfilet nach Art des Hauses mit Salzkartoffeln

Rieschbacher Öpfelchüechli

I’m keen on finding traditional places. Restaurant Schlössli near the Busstation Neuaffoltern fits that bill. The building looks like a castle and leaves a lasting impression. The place was a tad empty, but it clearly showed that this is a well kept family business. Our waiter (and the senior boss) was immaculately dressed, with perfect manners and obviously knows how to run a dining room. I almost squealed with delight when I read through the menu. There are old swiss dishes on there which I’ve never heard before. The appetizer was called Arischtokraten- gericht which is swiss german for “dish of the aristrocrats”. A piece of sweetbreads was served on top of a pastry filled with spinach. Tasty, something new, perfectly executed and unsure if there’s another restaurant in Zurich which serves this, this all makes this dish a clear winner. I followed with a whitefish à la maison and some boiled potatoes. Again nice execution and good taste. However the à la meuniere way of cooking the fish detracts a bit from it since it covers the fillets in flour and the overall flavor of the dish was somewhat mediterranean. Dessert was a superb dish from Riesbach, some small crepes filled with apples and raisins. Simple, elegant and nowhere else to be found. Personally I think the great strength of this restaurant lies in cooking dishes which draw on the rich heritage of foods from Zurich and their dedication to fish. I’m hoping they’ll expand their menu to cover more old school recipes. Prices:

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China Vietnam Supermarket, Militaerstrasse, Zurich

Papayasalat mit Crevetten

Ente mit Massamancurry

So a fried tells me there’s a new great place on Militärstrasse and after a few beers I let myself be convinced and head over there. Now I still don’t know what the place is called, it’s seems to be simply named China Vietnam Supermarket. It’s a Mom and Pop shop and the owners make a very hard attempt at pleasing diners. I ordered a Papaya salad with shrimp. Now I’m okay with hot, but this one almost killed me. I needed two additional beers to quench the burn. I didn’t taste much of the duck massaman curry which followed, but the it was a tad dry and I wasn’t too happy. Prices were cheap, but I’m not sure I’ll be back:

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Brasserie Bits and Bites, Wallisellenstrasse, Zurich

Gemischter Salat

Club Sandwich

Sometimes restaurant names are misleading. The Brasserie Bits and Bites sounds like Bits and Bytes and reminds one of Software and Computers. Not necessarily the connection that comes natural with food. The place lacks love and heart, it was designed by an efficiency driven manager, could be that the accompanying chain hotel had a certain effect… Appetizer was a mixed salad. On a an appetizer salad which should be something small to quench part of the appetite, serving some potato salad is too much, it makes the salad too heavy. The club sandwich didn’t rock my boat either. The bread was some foccacio type which wasn’t as good as plain grilled toast would have been. The worst bit was the sides of french fries, oily and lumpy. Looking at the website their motto is “let us entertain you” and that perfectly mirrors the tacky interior. The place revalidates every clichée about hotel restaurants. And, I’m sure that the guy running this place is a german from the eastern part, whose palate was schooled with canned foods and Dr. Oetker in the late 90ies. Prices:

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Greulich, Hermann-Greulich-Str, Zurich

Brot, Anke und Kresse

Selleriesüppchen, Wachtelbrust auf Stangensellerie und schwarze Nuss

Confierter Lachs mit Randen

Hirsch mit Maisschnitte und Rotkraut

The Greulich has a new head chef, which also brought a new type of cuisine. Instead of the flavours of Catalan, we’re now closer to home, echoing a trend of increased localisation in our globalised world. Feeling like experiencing what the new guy has to offer, I opt for the menu. Bread is accompanied by a small bouquet of cress and a pair of scissors. Slathering butter onto the bread, cutting the cress and sprinkling it on top makes a nice little amuse bouche. The quail breast was lacking a tad of crunch and I’m not a big believer of the brown nuts. But the frothy and airy celeriac soup more than compensated. The fish course was of very high quality, combined with beets and slightly comfitted, a masterpiece. The wine flight served with the meal made it obvious what was going to be the man course. The gingerbread aroma of the red wine called for venison and that was excatly what was being served. Perfectly executed, paired with a nice red cabbage, only the polenta bread didn’t satisfy me. I really liked the new Greulich, serving a modern, no thrills take on local swiss foods, with clean flavours, made me happy. Prices:

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Restaurant Alte Sonne, Obermeilen, Zurich

Gemischter Salat

Cordon bleu mit Röschti

The Restaurant Alte Sonne is well tucked away in a part of Meilen, which locals compare to the Bronx of New York. Obermeilen is an underdeveloped area which has not been subject to gentrification. Nevertheless, good memories of raucous festive activies in the private dining room on the first floor prevail. The mixed salad was homemade and decent, not sure what the tomatoes where doing on there at this time of the year. The cordon bleu was average, meeting the expectations. But the roeschti was exquisite, I even asked what it was cooked in, and apparently a special butter / oil combination was used. It had an interesting slight, sweetness to it and I’ve never had something like it. Now it wasn’t as good as at the Alpenblickbut it stood it’s own ground. I liked the bill – so old fashioned:

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