Our german friends who have decided to live in Zurich bring all their culinary favourite foods with them. Art of Körry has opened on the Langstrasse and aims to deliver an authentic Currywurst experience. I had the regular fare with some fries. The curry sauce has a very fruity tang to it (apparently some applesauce is added) and the Buerli is hearty. Unfortunatley the fries where soggy and not as crispy as they should have been. Again I’m not a Currywurst Connaiseur, but if I had to make a call, the one at Goldbrunnenplatz gets my vote.
Talking about going back in time – the Veltliner Keller near the St. Peter really feels like a classy restaurant you see in some of the Columbo films. The dining room is covered with wood and even has a couple of nice cozy, small booths next to a window. Service is very comme il faut and brings back memories of dining with grandparents years ago. In a classic place one should opt for a classic dish. I had a Zürcher Geschnetzeltes with Röschti. I’m sure they’ve been doing this for years and haven’t changed a thing. Unfortunately it is on the very heavy side and lacks elegance. On the other hand it’s served in two helpings which again matches the style of the restaurant. So if you’re looking for very classic dining, say to take your grandmother to, check out this place (albeit at modern prices):
I’m in a hurry to grab something to eat just near the Bhf Wipkingen, and I walk past the Tre Fratelli. My italian is limited to cursing at other football players, but I belive it means three brothers. I arrive at 18:30 and the host tells me that the place is all booked out, but if I left before 20:30 she could seat me at a table. Feeling that I could deal with the pressure I slid into a seat at a large communal table in the middle of the dining room. Appetizer were some homemade, fresh ravioli, neither bad nor memorable, the only thing I didn’t understand is why a place with an italian name, serves fresh tomatoes on top of their pasta in the middle of winter. My assumption is that belgian chemistry and dutch agrotechnics did the trick. The next dish blew me away. I had ordered a meatlof (pork and beef) with vegetables cooked in the sauce and mash. The meatlof was better – and keep in mind that this is costing me my inheritance – than mom’s. Juicy, flavourful and moist on the inside, with a perfect slightly charred outside, with this dish Tre Fratelli is really throwing down the gauntlet in the face of most home cooks. Still feeling dizzy in a good kind of way I ate a plate of Tiramisu, but my thoughts were still lingering with the meat loaf. I tried a recipe from Saisonküche the next day, but it seems that editor-in-chiefs didn’t check out Tre Fratelli before publishing theirs. Prices:
I was surprised to see that one of my favorite lunch places has undergone a change in owners. The Weisses Rössli is now run by Mirca Reich & Mathieu Bacon, whereas apparently Helen & Samuel Knill have moved on. I have a small confession to make, I had a reservation at another restaurant, but it didn’t convince me from the outside, hence we took our chances on getting a table here. Surprisingly we got a nice four-top in a corner. The place was cleared out and part of the african inspired artwork has gone. It’s still one of my favourite dining rooms in Zurich. Old, yet elegant and simple, toned down, places like this are no lon$ger being built. A small meatball on tomato butter made it to our table. It was a tad dry and some more heat would have been nice. My appetizer was a nice foie gras maison, especially the hearty toasted brioche made this a perfect, classy dish to start off my meal. Next was a beef filet, no much you can do wrong there, with a nice sauce of morels and some delicate homemade linguine. Good products, good execution, good courses. I finished with an apple tartlette with sour cream icecream and an espresso. To be fair I’ll always miss the mashed potatoes with currysauce and the unforgettable salad sauce with Liebstöckl. But the new proprietors have their own handwriting and they’ve managed to maintain the high level of execution. Prices:
A new korean place called Akaraka opened in the former Essenza. Being a big fan of the korean cuisine I head over for dinner. Appetizers are a typical selection with pancackes, dumplings and some lovely Kimchi (spicy, homemade cabbage, essentially the korean sauerkraut). The only small gripe was the pancackes, I would have prefered a more crispier rendition and a tad less doughy. My man course was a Dolsot Bibimap, which is a great dish served in a warm clay pot. Essentially it’s rice, meat, vegetables and sauce. You mix everything together in the bowl and enjoy. Funny thing is the tagline on the menu – “as enjoyed by the hollywood stars”. Quite frankly, I doubt that Hollywood stars obsessed with using skim, fat-free milk in their cappucino have a very developed palate…. Nevertheless the owner was very friendly and attentive, even suggested us a korean drink to go with the meal. Prices are cheap (considering we ordered almost every appetizer there was):
Sometimes even I get lazy and just pick up the Zueritipp to decide where I shall go to. This time it was Zum weissen Rössli in Albisrieden (not to be confused with the Weisses Rössli). I start of with some mixed cold cuts, interestingly enough duck, water buffalo (dried meat and salami) and pancetta. Not a big fan of the sausage but the dried water buffalo tickled my palate. Main course was the daily special, a noire de bigorre pork with sauce, mashed potatoes and mixed carrots. I enjoy the noire de bigorre especially the extremly tasty and interesting fat. The sauce had a bit of tomatoeyness to it, which the chef attributed to the tomato paste used in starting the sauce. Mash was like moms. Nice local eatery, certainly more mature than the Sternen next door. Prices:
Stefan Wieser and Meinrad Schlatter have found a new home for their restaurant and have settled in the former Freieck in the Seefeld. The place is now called Stefs Freieck. One of the things which is very apparent is, that they’ve managed to transport the ambiance of the former Stefs Zentraleck to the Stefs Freieck. It’s astounding how it feels just like the old place, albeit a bit smaller (25 seats or so). I could almost copy an earlier review, the menu hasn’t changed either. We start with some peas ravioli paired with a ginger-carrot foam. Something I had never eaten before and it was nice how the combination of sweetness in the peas and carrots paired. The chef later revealed that it was actually an avantgarde/fine-dining version of the classic carrots and peas often served by swiss mothers to their children. Moving on the main dish was a classic double entrecote, served with vegetables, potato gratin and tarragon butter sauce. The man knows his meat and I’m willing to go out on a limb here – I’ll bet that there’s not a place in Zurich which does a better entrecote. I think this is a prime example how good food is, if you have a small menu, you concentrate on a couple of dishes and you do them exceptionally well. The only small distraction was the dessert, I’ve had better Bündner Nusstorte before. Overall I remain a fan of the place and I hope that they keep the high standards as the thrill of opening a new place wanes and business as usal starts. Prices (we went overboard on the wine, leave that out):
One of my favourite restaurants in Zurich, the Spice has a new crew which is running the show. Felix Episser is travelling the world and his former sous-chef – Christian Nickel – has stepped up to the plate and is running the show. Lucky me, a fellow gourmet and food writer invited me lunch to try it out. The place is half full for lunch, making it easier to get one of the coveted tables at the window. A smart amouse makes it our way, a lovely shrimp wrapped in batter makes me hungry for more. The menu is still following the Spice principle of having some dishes clearly in the traditional heritage of french cooking, whereas the other ones play of more modern asian flavours. The duck liver was expertly prepared, nicely plated and paired with just enough fruit and acid to create a well balanced dish. Main course was a ragout covered in a mousseline served alongside a swiss veal back with some chestnut puree. Strong meaty flavours, absolute nice and well cooked ragout, only small drawback was a certain sweetness to the purees/mousselines which accompanied the meat. Dessert was an assortment of different tibits. A big compliment to whomever bought the mangos, they were simply delicious and obviously selected with great skill from the food purveyor. Now overall, the spirit of Felix Episser still lingers over the Spice but his successor is providing the continuity which makes me confident that this restauran will remain on my list of favourites. I’ll be back in the evening to double check.