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Parkhuus (Park Hyatt), Beethovenstrasse, Zurich

romanasalat, speck, briochecroûtons, reggiano parmesan-knoblauchdressing

bauernbratwurst, gebraten, schalotten, geräuchert, rotweinsenf

gurke, mariniert, senfkörner, weissweinessig, kalt serviert;pilze, gemischt, geröstet, im holzofen;grüne bohnen, gebraten, lardo di colonnata, rote zwiebeln;fenchel, geschmort, dill, briochecroûtons, safransud

Vacheringlace


My dinner took me to the Parkhuus, the restaurant beloning to the Park Hyatt. The people in the dining room are either here on business or trying hard to look like they belong to the rich and famous (and maybe some do). There’s obviously money around to be spent and this seems like a good premise for a restaurant. I really liked their menu, it might be on the large side, but it’s fitting for a hotel restaurant of this size with a fully staffed brigade. Instead of using proper names, they call out the individual ingredients, cool, but a fading trend. My first dish was a rendition of a Caesar’s salad. I liked the chunky bacon, but the brioche croutons was lacking crunch and I would have liked a bit more oomph on the sauce. The secret of a Caesar’s salad lies in the almost meat like umami quality. As a main dish I skipped all the lavish meat cuts they described and settled on a simple pork bratwurst. I really liked the big selection of side orders. I was disappointed so much I was dismayed. The sausage was overcooked and dry, and neither the mushrooms, beans, fennel nor the cucumber salad were really good. The beans were undercooked, the cucumbers got boring very quickly at least the mushrooms were soso. The point here is, why go through all the trouble of serving it in a lot of different and cute dishes, giving you almost an old school formal dining feel, when the food lacks excitement. The most disappointing thing remained the bratwurst, you can get a better cooked one at any local Grümpelturnier or opening of a garden center. While I understand making small incision cuts into a veal bratwurst or cervelat, for a pork bratwurst it just makes the fat disappear out of it very quickly, this seems like cooked by someone who’s not big on wurst. Dessert comforted me somewhat it was a decent take on a Vacherin Glace.

Prices:

Rechnung

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Posted by therealpickygourmet on 13 September 2011
2 Comments Post a comment
  1. 09/13/2011
    Marc Bill

    134 CHF for what’s basically a Bratwurst dish? WTF! 😉

    I’d rather go for a plain Kobe beef burger for that price (which likely isn’t available at “Parkhuus” though – or would cost the double of what you paid at any decent place). Overly expensive too, but at least the ingredients are of highest quality.

    Reply
    • 09/18/2011
      therealpickygourmet

      Do you know a place in Zurich which has a Kobe beef burger ?

      Reply

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