Posts from the ‘Dinner’ Category
The Ziegelhütte in Schwamendingen has been relaunched by a well established restaurant entrepeneur. I was looking forward to seeing what they had to offer. The menu was pretty enticing with a local Zurich touch and someone who cares about ensuring a strong swiss influence. I start with a Schwartenmagen (headcheese) paired with a tarragon sauce. Nice balance between meat and pickles, the tarragon sauce added a good touch of acid, maybe there was too much gelatin in the headcheese and I would have enjoyed more of the tasty bits. Staying with the stomach topic, tripe with morels and vegetable was next. Interesting how the texture and appearance of the morels and the tripe paired, the taste was good, the vegetables cooked nicely, the sauce was a touch too thick but again a surprising and tasty dish. My main course was a cipollata sausage paired with a pork chop from a swiss wool swine. I opted for Roeschti instead of the beans. I was disappointed slightly about the roeschti. It had a good taste of potatoes and butter, but it wasn’t crunchy enough. Nothing to complain on the meat, someone knows how to select his butcher. I liked the gentle renovation of the Ziegelhuette and if you’re looking for a tasty, honest and down to earth dinner – this is the place. Prices:
Beyond is in a not so cozy sidestreet just next to the Zurich main station. I’ve been here a couple of times and one of the main drives was that I see busloads of apparently chinese tourists having dinner here. There are two types of menu, one an hommage to the fine dining establishment of Suan Long, calling out boring and dumbed down “chinese” dishes. The second one is a mix of english and chinese and has the much more interesting dishes. Now my dining companion was leaning more towards the traditional menus and we mixed and matched. A special notion goes to the scallion pancake, where the crispiness of the pan cake was nicely matched by the fresh crunchiness of the scallions, a great dish for people who have never had it before. It’s certainly not fine dining as in a romantic, first-date setup but if you’re looking for decent Chinese this is certainly in the top three in the Zurich area. Prices:
After this debacle I was in dire need of something comforting. I headed to the Würstli Shop opposite the Hotel Sonne and had my regular dish. A pork sausage with onion sauce and french fries. While watching the curious characters in the area I tucked in and while it wasn’t michelin star it made me happy. Also I had a bay leaf in my onion sauce which is a testament that this fast food shop is an honest and heart-felt affair aiming to please diners. Now I seldomly eat two dinners, but every once in a while a man’s got to do what a man’s got to do.
Saturday night and my colleague I was supposed to meet is no longer responding, since apparently (which I learnt later) he fell asleep in front of the television. Anyway one of the options I had planned out was going to the Gaumenfröide event at Restaurant Mühletal at the Limmatstrasse near the Dammweg tram station. The restaurant is running a mixed crew, the old proprietor is serving his swiss lunches while at night a different team is responsible. They feature guest amateur cooks which get a chance at running a restaurant every now and then and call the event Gaumenfröide. This particular event made me curious since the food sounded enticing. I walked over here alone and – you wouldn’t believe it if it were a movie – an old friend from school drives by. We end up eating dinner together. The restaurant is real old school swiss and if gentrification continues the way it has, in about five years places like this will be featured at the Landesmuseum. There’s a set meal at these Gaumefröide events and your only choice is with or without dessert. We start with a lukewarm vegetable salad, I loved the Kohlrabi, would have liked a bit more crunch on the beans but overall a nice, heartfelt way to start a meal. Next was something called “Rys und Pohr”, a risotto with leeks and ramson pork sausage (Bärlauchbratwurst). If you ever asked yourself why some people call themselves “terroirs” this is why. Great sausage, great risotto (maybe a bit much cheese) – what else do you need? This was one of these main courses where afterwards I feel like spawning offspring of my own. The meal finished with an apple roeschti and cinnamon ice cream, the resident pomologist (someone who studies apples) wasn’t happy with the choice of apple, but otherwise nice. For a dinner with three people including beers, wine and schnaps we payed less than 200 CHF. I’m looking forward for more of these Gaumefröide events and am inclined to test the lunch menu since these are still executed by the former proprietor.
It was freezing and we headed for Dinner at Morgenstern da Mario. This is a typical restaurant with a host with a larger than life personality. The stairs to the washroom is filled with pictures of (assumed) Mario and an incredible variety of celebrities (or at least very important people with their own facebook page). We start with a large selection of warm and cold antipasti including homemade burata and seafood. The quality was nice, the selection was well thought out, certainly not of the plain old open a can variety and it was a generous serving. I can understand why people come here, this was a nice way to ease into the dinner. My pasta dish were some Orechiette with a hearty ragu, nothing to complain, except that maybe I should have ordered a larger portion. I greatly enjoy Baccala (salted cod) and they had a dish on the menu. I like the flavour which develops from the rehydrated fish and this here was no exception. I’m also happy when slightly unusual courses are available. While Mario’s charm can be hard to bear, the food is great and the prices pretty decent:
I am posessed by a daemon, the daemon of being the first to publish about a new restaurant. This time it’s the Times restaurant on Gasometerstrasse, next to Maison Blunt in the Kreis 5. Normally I’d post a link, but it seems that the place does without internet. Quite some rumours have been flying around this former garage, one quoting the rent being as high as 20’000 CHF. I was rather curious to see what this establishment was going to be about. The garage looks pretty sleek, even though there’s a store or something at the front, I like the mix of wood and industrial chic which give it a good feel. I sit down and after some thinking decide on the tasting menu, which I order without cheese and dessert, simply the savoury dishes. The amuse bouche is a piece of salmon in a potato soup with freshly grated horseradish. While it wasn’t bad, it did show two recurring topics. The acid was too strong and the salmon overpowering, you couldn’t taste much of the horseradish. The brioche on the duck liver was superb, seldomly have I seen a better piece, no complaints on the liver but I would have left out the chinese (?) plum schnaps that was served as a chaser. Originally a “beef-tea” was on the menu, but I was advised (before I ordered) that it had been replaced. The chef comes out and serves a slipper lobster (Bärenkrebs) with a tomato essence. The amuse bouche repeats itself, the acidity of the tomato essence was simply overpowering and it stole the show from the otherwise nice piece of seafood. Moving on to the lasagne aperto (which I assume translates to open-faced) was on the timid side and what some of the other dishes had too much this one was lacking in oomph. You’d be expecting umami, lovely cheese which mixes with the sauce bechamel, strong beef and some distinct pasta flavour, here it was more a whisper in the wind. The lobster claws were served on a bean cassoulet, the beans weren’t cooked enough and the pairing with the sweetness of the lobster was weird. My main course was a beef filet on a parsley mash, black truffle sauce and celeriac sticks. Nothing to complain on the filet, it was wrapped in a slice of bacon which added to the dish, the celeriac sticks were slightly weird, since they were covered in a breading and fried, almost reminiscent of a fish stick. What did I make of the dinner here ? Not much. The staff was very friendly (they even offered me a glass of wine) and the service up to decent standards, but the food was clumsy. It reminded me of tales I had heard of bad strip clubs. Just because your name is Candy and you have a tattoo on your butt, doesn’t make you a seducing male entertainment professional. There were a lot of the right elements, but they failed to come together, failed to be properly balanced, mainly in flavour and acidity. Prices are on the upper end and I guess are testament to the gentrification of the area:[/caption
Sometimes I almost feel sorry that I visit restaurants in my capacity as a food critic, simply for the fact that they’re so bad. Finding points to rant about is like trout fishing with handgrenades (a day in my army career I’ll never forget). I’ve been to the restaurant Popcorn near the Goldbrunnenplatz once before and was disappointed. The place was re-decorated and a sign was posted which called out the fact that they were relaunching the restaurant. Not being resentful I was looking forward to great improvements. The place sports a distinct Americana theme and the small menu partially resembles that. The waitress tells me that they have a special of the day veal cutlets with marsala sauce and saffron risotto. I order a small Caesar salad as a starter. The salad made me chuckle, Romaine lettuce, large slices of parmesan, tomatoes and pre-fabricated, bottled french dressing. Really?! No croutons, no bacon, no sauce which at least resembles a typical Caesar salad dressing a little bit ? Things unexpectedly went downhill from there. The veal cutlets were tough and chewy, the marsala sauce indifferent and the risotto horrible. It literally tasted like one of those processed risottos from a box and reeked of white wine which wasn’t cooked off properly. The funniest thing of the evening was a german travelling salesmen sitting next to me who praised the chef about the high quality of the food. Either he was a notorious liar or the poor guy’s wife learned to cook in a paint factory. Even though the place was cheap, it wasn’t worth the money: