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Posts tagged ‘Aargau’

Restaurant Bären, Hauptstrasse, Mägenwil

Pouletfilet am Stecken mit vier Saucen

Felchenfilet-Kombination geräucht und als Ceviche

Provenzalischer Eierschwämmlisalat mit Verveine und Zucchiniblüte

Wildschweinrücken mit Miniapfel, Rotkraut und Polenta

Weisser Pfirsich mit seinem Sorbet, Lavendel und Cantucci

The Bären Mägenwil is tricky to reach on a 125cc Scooter, since it involves riding on the Autobahn. The place is packed on a Saturday night. I study the menu and since they pride themselves for chicken, I decide on getting some chicken breast skewers as a pre-appetizer. Not sure that this was a good idea, since it was pretty bland chicken on a stick, the sauces helped a bit. The next dish was a combination of whitefish served on avocado. I wasn’t too fond of the ceviche part since it was cut rather thick. Also ceviche for me is a light dish, which doesn’t pair well with the avocado. I was happier with the next dish, a verveine and chanterelle combo served on a zucchini flower. Interesting how the verveine paired with the chanterelles, this was a new yet fully convincing taste for me. The main dish was a piece of wild board with the usual game season side dishes. I’ve had a lot of game dishes where the sides were prepared with more love. Neither the red cabbage nor the apple were really convincing, the Polenta was good. Points again were scored on the dessert, white peaches, lavender, white peach sorbet and cantucci. This is one of the first times I’ve actually liked the use of lavender on a dish. Is the place worth driving from Zurich to Mägenwil on a 125cc Scooter on the Autobahn at night ? No, but in all fairness it had certain dishes with merits, which I’d order again (Chanterelle & White Peaches). And then again, what was I thinking by riding a not-so-bad-assed, not-a-real motorcycle on the highway. It must have been my strong commitment to you, my trusted, beloved and truly valued reader. I would like to point out that there was a celebrity in the house, Mario Barth had a show in Zurich and was stopping here for dinner. I guess if you’re used to german restaurants, this was a fantastic choice, since prices are rather reasonable:

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Restaurant Mürset, Schachen, Aarau

Lachs mit Selleriesalat

Gemischter Salat

Leicht gebundene Zitronengrassuppe mit knusprigem Gewürzsegel und kurz gebratenen Würfeln vom Gelbflossen Thunfisch

Rosa gebratenes Entrecôte vom Bison mit Bourbon Whiskeysauce Ricotta-Gemüse-Canneloni und Wintergemüse

Tirolercake


Funny enough, I thought there was a place in Aarau called the Riviera, but apparently that was a restaurant. Right next to it is one of the pinnacles of fine dining for Aarau, the
Muerset. It sports multiple dining areas from brasserie to fine dining. The pictures on the website look quaint, so we end up in a table in the corner. Amuse bouche was a celeriac salad with a bit of salmon. The presentation was bad and there could have been more care in trimming the salmon. Next up was a mixed salad which again was somewhat below average. One piece of lettuce was just too big for the plate, the sole tomato in winter made me wonder and the asparagus salad (while a nice touch) was imported from Mexiko. I asked the chef and he did say that he wanted to try something out with the asparagus, nevertheless I’d be expecting some more seasonality in the selection of his produce. The soup which followed was made with lemongrass and some pieces of tuna. Nice flavor combination, good execution, this was the best dish of the meal. Mains was a cut of bison meat with some Canelloni. I like bison and that was perfectly cooked, but the Canelloni were bland. Dessert was Tirolercake which normally brings back memories of my mother making a delicious snack. In this rendition it was more like some dry stuff you get prebaked at the Migros. Maybe it was just a bad day here, but from menu composition, quality of execution and produce this place wasn’t up to the alledged 14 Gault Millau points. Prices:

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Bären, Bözen, Aargau

Öpfelschnitz und Buurebrot

Öpfelschnitz und Buurebrot

Buurekotelette, Leber-, Blut-, Rauch- und Bratwust

Buurekotelette, Leber-, Blut-, Rauch- und Bratwust

Röschti

Röschti

Saturday lunch I called a good friend and we wanted to go for a Metzgete. Metzgete literally means Butchery and implies that all kind of different pork preparations are served. Some research led me to believe that the Bären in Bözen seems like a good address for Metzgete. It takes you only 50 minutes from Zurich mainstation to get there (train to Brugg, Postauto to Bözen Mitteldorf). We sit down at the table and decide on a local wine. The waitress approaches us with a small list of all the things which are offered at the Metzgete, we decide to go with one of each. She looks surprised but shrugs it off and puts in our order. We ordered pork chops, liver-, blood- (boudin), smoke- and bratwurscht, apple slices, bread, roeschti and sauerkraut. A perfect light lunch on a nice sunny autumn day. The friend I brought along has a background in butchery and as such was highly qualified to judge the sausages. We both agreed that it was a great metzgete. Only the smoked sausage didn’t have much appeal. Everything else was great. Take the liver sausage as an example. Real porc intestines on the outside, liver with onions and even some raisins on the inside, nicely seasoned just a perfect example of what a “Leberwurscht” should be (and it was only charged at 11 CHF). We did feel a bit full, so a couple of local juniper berry (Wacholder) schnaps helped out (no it wasn’t as strong as gin). A great and fantastic meal at a great price. If you like 100% vegan free places, this is where you’ll never meet one:

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