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Posts tagged ‘Old School’

Restaurant Schlössli, Kaeferholzstrasse, Zurich

Steinpilze auf Toast

Zürcher Arischtokrategricht

Leberli mit Rösti

Rieschbacher Öpfelchuechli


I almost never write a second article about a restaurant, but the Restaurant Schlössli has earned one. On a cold and stormy night, a lonesome traveller searches refuge from the weather in an Inn close to a cemetery. A massive building a top of a small incline presents itself to the hungry protagonist and offers shelter. When I walked into the dining room I was the only person there. I politely asked if they would still serve me dinner and they were very welcoming and friendly. It was a bit odd having the owner and the waitress fussing over myself, but I felt amply comfortable. Porcini on toast were my first appetizer and I tucked in, everything was fine, except maybe a tad heavy on the sauce, less would have been more. One of my favourite old school dishes (which I discovered right here at the Schlössli) was next, the Old Zurich Aristocrats dish. A piece of sweetbreads on top of a pastry filled with spinach. Special, delicious and pretty one of a kind, this really shows why even “normal” restaurants can excel at what they’re doing if they just care enough! The ease with which the sauteed calf liver with roeschti made its appearance, the liver having the right springiness and the roeschti the right crunchiness was another testament to the strength of the kitchen. But the real killer was dessert. Without even looking at the menu I ordered “Rieschbacher Oepfelchuechli”, something which I knew was one the menu before. After a couple of minutes the waitress reappears and says that they didn’t have the apricot sauce, but would use a plum one instead. The dish was then served by the chef personally and he asked why I knew about it. I found out that it actually wasn’t on the menu currently and he had made it specially for me. How touching! The last time I was feeling this good was when my mother looked at a drawing I had made in Kindergarten and told me that I had immense talent and that she couldn’t have thought of a nicer painting. Quite frankly – I don’t get why this place is half empty. It has great skill in the kitchen, a very attentive service and a menu (which is a bit too large) with traditional dishes you’ll find nowhere else. I think this calls either for Daniel Buhmann or Gordon Ramsay, since I’ll be back anyhow but we need more patrons here. Prices:

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Restaurant Schlössli, Neuaffoltern, Zürich

Zürcher Arischtokratengericht

Felchenfilet nach Art des Hauses mit Salzkartoffeln

Rieschbacher Öpfelchüechli

I’m keen on finding traditional places. Restaurant Schlössli near the Busstation Neuaffoltern fits that bill. The building looks like a castle and leaves a lasting impression. The place was a tad empty, but it clearly showed that this is a well kept family business. Our waiter (and the senior boss) was immaculately dressed, with perfect manners and obviously knows how to run a dining room. I almost squealed with delight when I read through the menu. There are old swiss dishes on there which I’ve never heard before. The appetizer was called Arischtokraten- gericht which is swiss german for “dish of the aristrocrats”. A piece of sweetbreads was served on top of a pastry filled with spinach. Tasty, something new, perfectly executed and unsure if there’s another restaurant in Zurich which serves this, this all makes this dish a clear winner. I followed with a whitefish à la maison and some boiled potatoes. Again nice execution and good taste. However the à la meuniere way of cooking the fish detracts a bit from it since it covers the fillets in flour and the overall flavor of the dish was somewhat mediterranean. Dessert was a superb dish from Riesbach, some small crepes filled with apples and raisins. Simple, elegant and nowhere else to be found. Personally I think the great strength of this restaurant lies in cooking dishes which draw on the rich heritage of foods from Zurich and their dedication to fish. I’m hoping they’ll expand their menu to cover more old school recipes. Prices:

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Leo’s Bistro, Stauffacher, Zurich

Härdöpfelsüppli mit Schniddlauch

Härdöpfelsüppli mit Schnittlauch

Schwartenmagen mit Salat

Schwartenmagen mit Salat

Cote du boeuf überbacken mit Markbein und Risotto

Cote du boeuf überbacken mit Markbein und Risotto

Zwetschgensorbet mit Vieille Prune

Zwetschgensorbet mit Vieille Prune


Leo’s Bistro is located just next to the Stauffacher. It obviously isn’t a chic and sleek restaurant, where highly paid gastronomic consultants worked on a new and exciting concept. We get lucky and get the nice lady as our waiter. Now she’s not nice in terms of your hormones starting to dance around, she radiates a more motherly type of love. I always like when you’re shown the type of food that is going to be prepared for you and we had a good look at the different bits and pieces. The only strange thing was, that the meat was still wrapped in plastic, which doesn’t make a very good impression. The amuse bouche was a potato soup with some chives, nothing to complain there. I decided on the Schwartenmagen with a bit of salad. Again a tasty and crafty dish. It held what it promised and shows great skill of the cook. I do have to mention the dish my colleague had. It was a smoked piece of foie gras. I originally wanted to order that, but settled for a sample from my colleague. My mistake, because that certainly was the best appetizer of the evening. My main was a cote du boeuf with pieces of marrow on top of it and baked over with a bit of cheese. If you’re into meat, this is a killer dish. A nice piece of meat and the salty and moist pieces of marrow made this a lovely combination. I had a side dish of risotto and that was totally horrible. Oversalted and overcooked, just a mushy, disgusting mess. Still this is a restaurant you visit for the meat and the cote du boeuf was excellent. Dessert was a prune sorbet topped with some prune schnaps (vielle prune). Asides from the risotto debacle, this is a great place for men. The three of us had appetizers, main courses and desserts plus quite a lot to drink. Aperitifs, 2 bottles of red wine, water, grappa and espressi came to a whopping 500 CHF. I was kind of surprised at the steep financial hit, since it wasn’t quite adequate, even though the food was good:
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