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Posts tagged ‘Paris’

Restaurant Paris Moskau, Alt Moabit, Berlin

Gebratener Bärenkrebs mit Kürbis und Paprika

Schinken und Bayrische Creme von der Forelle mit Röstzwiebeln und geräucherter Birne

Entenleber im Tempurateig mit Erbse, Mango und Schalotte

Short ribs mit Grillaromen, Avocado, Minze und Tomaten

Hirschkalb mit Schnittlauchsauce, Spinatcreme, Pfifferlingen und Brotsoufflé

Paris Moskau is a single house in the no mans land next to the Berlin Hauptbahnhof. I wanted to go there after a rave review from one of my two favourite sisters. Apparently the german politician Schäuble likes to dine here. The place has around 40 seats and is easy to reach by foot (if you like walking through dark parks). The menu looks interesting and my two companions and myself all pick different dishes. The rock lobster with peppers and pumpkin was a nice way to ease into the meal. The next dish had a couple of suspensful components such as trout cream, ham, roasted onions and pear. Surprisingly this worked to make a well-balanced and pretty unique plate. I was looking forward to the duck liver in tempura batter but got disappointed. Overall it’s a liquid mess and the whole richness, creamyness and depth of the liver is lost, since the thing is no longer in a solid state. My short ribs were on the dry side and the sauce with grill aromas didn’t carry enough punch. Nothing to complain on the venison, except maybe the plating. The big schmear of chive sauce was rather amateurish and looked like my own creative work at the age of six. You won’t be disappointed by dining here, but you’re better of going to a place like reinstoff if you’re looking for a more modern and avant-gardish gourmet dinner. Prices for three:


L’atelier du Joël Robuchon, Avenue des Champs Elysées, Paris

Le fois gras dans un velouté de daikon glacé et une gelée de boeuf tremblotante

Le caviar imperial avec un salade mimosa de haricots verts à la citronelle

La langoustine en papillote croustillante au basilic

La girolle en royale avec un capuccino de persil simple

La Lotte et ses cocos de Paimpol mitonnés au chorizo "iberico de bellota"

La caille avec une pomme purée

I was thrilled, my dear aunt and uncle were again able to secure us a reservation at a place I’ve been very keen on trying out. L’atelier du Joël Robuchon is a low touch fine dining restaurant with a twist. We visited the one near the Arc de Triomphe. The twist is really that instead of a classic setting with tables in a dining room, there is an open kitchen in the middle of the room with a big bar around it. People sit at the bar, get served from behind it and can watch the chefs prepare the dishes. The idea is pretty striking since not only does it create a less formal and more welcoming atmosphere, I’m sure that for the waiters it’s much simpler to serve this way and shorter distances they have to walk. The first very pleasant surprise was that the chef de service Mr. Hernandez is a true master of his craft. My french comes from the Swiss Army (subset of français fédéral) and while enough to explain how to reload an assault rifle, not quite up to par when it comes to the intricate details of fine dining menus. Not only did he make us feel welcome, answered all our questions, he actually suggested us a fantastic wine a 2009 Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage, with nice fruit and well-present tanins. I went for the tasting menu to get a good overview. My alternative would have been to select among smaller plates, different skewers and a selection of main courses. The food was flawless, presentation beautiful with sensible flavor combinations. A couple of things are worth calling out in detail. First course was a daikon veloute with croutons, foie gras and a trembling beef jelly. I liked the incorporation of the japanese daikon on the menu, because quite frankly japanese and french dining are in my opinion the two most sophisticated cuisines. Besides the daikon, also the fact that he had skewers on the menu and served them while sitting at a bar reminded of an Izakay (japanese pub). Another component which literally blew me off my feet were the green beans (haricot verts) on the second dish, they had the perfect texture. All the while, just opposite of us, a commis was slicing bits of a Jamon Iberico. Fascinating to watch the precision of his knife work and how the slightly warm fat started to run down the already glisting ham. My favourite dish was the quail leg and breast (stuffed with foie gras) and Robuchon’s legendary mashed potatoes. Now this is unlike any potatoes I ever had. First you almost look a bit strange at the waiter, thinking I’m a grown man and he’s only giving me such a small bowl. But after eating this (assumed) 50/50 emulsion of butter and potatoes, even it’s deliciousness couldn’t hide that it was filling. Overall I really liked the concept of this Atelier, it was unpretentious and uncomplicated dining. If I’m looking to nitpick, I’d call out that there was foie gras in the amuse bouche and two courses, which was a bit much. Of course you’ll end up spending a substantial amount of cash, but it’s well worth the experience and I doubt that you’ll get a more relaxed meal at this level of cuisine. Prices:


La Cigale Récamier, rue Récamier, Paris

oeuf en gelee

Foie Gras

Soufflée Henri IV

Soufflé Caramel

Paris at last! I finally went for my first trip to the french capital and was looking forward to seeing what french dining is all about. We had a reservation at the La Cigale Recamier (no website) and arrived early by french standards before 8 pm. We were welcomed and sat at a table. My aunt and uncle actually told me to order either Soufflés, something on the daily specials or the beef filet. I ordered two starters, a foie gras and an interesting sounding egg. Since you have to order desserts at the beginning I decided on sticking to Soufflés for mains and sweets. I did feel a bit rushed, it seems they we’re aiming to get our table turned very quickly and roughly 3 minutes after ordering – our appetizers arrived. I received both of my plates at the same time. The egg was very nice, even though it was cold it was wrapped in a strip of cured ham and the inside was still runny. It reminded me of older restaurant menus, which often had something in aspic and this here triggered these memories. The foie gras was horrible. A slab of goose liver, with too much fat on top covered in aspic. My family was right, it was something off the regular menu which I should have ignored. But moving on to the highlights – the Soufflés. There really isn’t much too say. I had a Henry IV, which essentially is a cheese Soufflée with a chicken sauce. In terms of airyness I’d say that this was one (small) step below an Espuma. Unlike the trendy foams this was much heartier and filling and the feeble aroma which vanishes as your tongue crushes the airy nothingness against the roof of your mouth is here to linger. Dessert was another hit, a caramel Soufflée with salt and a tad of sauce to pour over. Things kind of went sour after dinner, they brought our check, it was missing 40 Euros of merchandise we had consumed and we were nice enough to say so. It then took them 10 minutes to bring us our corrected check, next time I’ll just be a jerk and walk out the door and stiffing them. Apparently being nice in Paris is a sure way to out yourself as a tourist. Nevertheless Soufflées are fantastic and well worth the visit. Prices: