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Posts tagged ‘Stef’s’

Stefs Freieck, Wildbachstrasse, Zurich

Erbsenravioli mit Ingwerrüeblifoam

Entrecote double mit Kartofelgratin und Gemüse

Nusstorte

Stefan Wieser and Meinrad Schlatter have found a new home for their restaurant and have settled in the former Freieck in the Seefeld. The place is now called Stefs Freieck. One of the things which is very apparent is, that they’ve managed to transport the ambiance of the former Stefs Zentraleck to the Stefs Freieck. It’s astounding how it feels just like the old place, albeit a bit smaller (25 seats or so). I could almost copy an earlier review, the menu hasn’t changed either. We start with some peas ravioli paired with a ginger-carrot foam. Something I had never eaten before and it was nice how the combination of sweetness in the peas and carrots paired. The chef later revealed that it was actually an avantgarde/fine-dining version of the classic carrots and peas often served by swiss mothers to their children. Moving on the main dish was a classic double entrecote, served with vegetables, potato gratin and tarragon butter sauce. The man knows his meat and I’m willing to go out on a limb here – I’ll bet that there’s not a place in Zurich which does a better entrecote. I think this is a prime example how good food is, if you have a small menu, you concentrate on a couple of dishes and you do them exceptionally well. The only small distraction was the dessert, I’ve had better Bündner Nusstorte before. Overall I remain a fan of the place and I hope that they keep the high standards as the thrill of opening a new place wanes and business as usal starts. Prices (we went overboard on the wine, leave that out):

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Stefs Zentraleck, Zentralstrasse, Zurich

Update:
I don’t like to brag – but it took the Tagesanzeiger 10 days longer than yours truly to come up with
this. Who’s the number one in Zurich? 🙂

Why is therealpickygourmet.com the best dining blog ? Because we are better informed than everybody else. Two of my favorite places in Zurich have been the Zentraleck and Stefs. Now the Zentraleck has closed and the crew from Stefs have moved into the former Zentraleck. Meinrad Schlatter and Stefan Wieser are now running Stef’s Zentraleck. But what you didn’t know, and what you are going to read here for the first time ever is that the former crew of the Zentraleck is going to run the former Stef’s at the Hotel Rössli. So essentially the two restaurants are trading locations while keeping their crew intact. Where did you get that information first ? That’s right – on the one and only therealpickygourmet.com.

Bärenkrebs auf Avocado und Curryöl

Bärenkrebs auf Avocado und Curryöl

Getrüffeltes Geflügelleberparfait mit Quitten und Briochetoast

Getrüffeltes Geflügelleberparfait mit Quitten und Briochetoast

Gefüllte Ardeche Perlhuhnbrust mit Trüffelrisotto

Gefüllte Ardeche Perlhuhnbrust mit Trüffelrisotto

Stef’s at Zentraleck has just opened beginning of January 2009 and we went for dinner in the first week. Only two tables were occupied, one with five women and the other with us. Now middleaged women tend not to be popular with restaurant owners, since they share a salad, sample an appetizer and drink tap water. Funny thing was, that the table actually ordered a bottle of mineral water at 21:30, since they didn’t feel like going home… The menu really hasn’t changed much from Stef’s. You get four appetizers, three mains and 4 desserts to choose from. We started with a slipper lobster (Bärenkrebs) on avocado mousse and some salad. The second appetizer was a truffled poultry liver parfait with quince (Quitten) compott and salad. I very much enjoyed the clarity and simpleness of the three components each appetizer had. The slipper lobster was nice – the avocado mousse so-so and the salad on both plates was perfect. The best dish was the parfait, because it was the most fun eating. Our main dish was a filled guinea fowl breast (Perlhuhnbrust) on top of spinach and a side of truffle risotto. Nice fowl, nice spinach nice risotto, a very solid dish. Only downside was that there were some clusters of salt on the spinach (probably fleur de seul), making it a tad aggressive.
Some cheese rounded off the meal. I really enjoyed the place, I’m very happy to see that the level of cooking is being kept high in the new location. I’ll be back to taste an entrecote dish, since this guy knows his way around meat. Don’t be fooled by the bill, since we had five bottles of wine…:

Forget the wine - focus on the food

Forget the wine - focus on the food

stef’s Restaurant, Rössligasse, Zürich

Waldpilz Cappucino mit Steinpilz Crostini

Waldpilz Cappucino mit Steinpilz Crostini

Kalbs-Tartar Piemonteser Art mit Sommertrüffel

Kalbs-Tartar Piemonteser Art mit Sommertrüffel

Wildschweinrücken mit Herbstgemüse

Wildschweinrücken mit Herbstgemüse

Stef’s is a small restaurant which is only open in the evening, with room for about 25 diners. It’s well tucked away on the first floor of the Hotel Rössli. One guy is in the kitchen and his colleague is running the show in the dining room. The menu is short and changes every two weeks something really to my liking. We were greeted and showed to our table. Running roughly 20-25 diners on your own takes skill and experience and a couple of sturdy and swift legs. The waiter was literally running to and from the kitchen. He did ensure that we have a glass of wine to study the menu. I had issues in deciding but the menu structure helped me. You are billed per course – the first one being 45 CHF every additional one roughly 15 CHF. I started with a mushroom cappucino and a porcini crostini. The cappucino is a mushroom soup with some foam on top, hence its name. Nice taste of mushrooms and an exciting contrast of different textures made this a nice appetizer. I continued with the veal tartare and summer truffles. I didn’t care too much for it, the tastes were too subtle and too bland. In hindsight the idea of using such a fine and smooth meat for tartare doesn’t strike me as a good one. The big disappointment that went with the tartare was the bread. My dining partner guessed at Hiestand ready-bake 2000 from the gas station and she was probably right. Why not serve toast with? That’s just as easy to make and it would taste much better. I was looking forward to the main course, spaetzli, autumn veggies and a piece of wild boar. Wild boar sounds rustic, animalistic, manly – it just wakes the necessary associations which a good piece of meat should. You get the point that I was a bit excited when the plate arrived. The spaetzle were okay and the veggies were perfectly cooked. The meat was the killer. The boar meat is a dense, heavy and intense affair which was expertly matched by a rose hip (Hagebutten) sauce, which in turn made a pretty good marriage of flavours. Eating meat like this wakes an urge to father offspring in large numbers. We skipped dessert and had an espresso. The only real downside is that just one waiter is cutting it too close. There were a couple of times where we waited too long for our plates to get cleared. This will most likely improve, as apparently they are moving to the place where the Zentraleck is right now. Stef’s is a nice, chic and personal place with high quality food and above average prices:

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